Congratulations on your purchase! This Mother Bucket was created for the person who wants the mother of all buckets. This guide will give you a run through of the products in your new kit, how to use each product and what order to use them in to get the most out of them all. We have a good selection of products here to get you started and help look after your car - everything from washing and drying, to protecting to your paint, to looking after your microfibre.
Time to wash
The Wash & Rinse buckets and Great Barrier Thingy is a match made in heaven. Place your Great Barrier Thingy into the bottom of your Wash & Rinse buckets before you start washing your car to make sure you’re going to be trapping as much dirt as possible in the bottom of your buckets. We would strongly recommend purchasing our Wheels bucket to go with this kit, to use as a dedicated wheels only bucket.
Always do any car washing in the shade, with the paint cool to the touch for best results. Not doing this can cause the water and the wash suds to evaporate faster than you'd like, possibly leading to water spots on the glass and paint!
We like to start by cleaning our wheels first, as they are generally the dirtiest part of the car, and the grime off them is not what you want going onto your freshly washed car. Also, it's more time efficient to wash afterwards, so you don’t have the rinse water sitting on your cars panels for a longer period after washing.
We've always liked using pressure washers to help detail our cars, and they help a lot with wheel cleaning. If you don’t have a pressure washer, and you’re using a hose, or your wheels needed some extra cleaning after the pressure washer, we recommend our dedicated Wheels bucket (place a Great Barrier Thingy in it if you like – if you don’t have our dedicated Wheels bucket, you can use the Rinse bucket, just rinse it out very well after doing the wheels, then fill it with fresh, clean water before washing your vehicle) Add half a capful of Wax Wash and then fill it to the desired level and suds it up using the hose or pressure washer. Get the bucket situated next to the first wheel you are going to clean.
Grab the bottle of Wheely Clean and spray 6-8 sprays all around the surface of the wheel. Using your desired Wheel Woolie or wheel brush, dip it into the Wheels (or Rinse) bucket mixture and wash the wheel face and dish thoroughly. Rinse the dirty brushes out to clean off the grime and dirt and then go back to the Wheels (or Rinse) bucket and continue cleaning. This will keep your wash water clean and effective. Once you're happy the wheel is clean, rinse it clean with your pressure washer or hose and move onto the next wheel. Continue this procedure on each wheel till the job is done.
With your Great Barrier Thingy in the Wash & Rinse buckets, fill the Rinse bucket with approximately 10-12L of water. Add 1 capful of Wax Wash to the Wash bucket and then froth it up nicely with either the jet function of your hose, or preferably with a pressure washer.
Start by pressure washing the car down, or giving it a good blast with the jet function on your hose. We do this to remove any heavier bits of dirt and other contamination. Put your Shagtastic Wash Pad into your suds solution, giving It a gentle squeeze while it’s in there to really suck up all the suds it can. Then, starting from the top of the car first, gently wash the whole car, being sure to wipe the Shagtastic Wash Pad over the Great Barrier Thingy when it goes back into your Rinse bucket, to ensure any dirt and grime picked up from the car goes to the bottom of the bucket and is trapped by The Great Barrier Thingy.
Once washed, rinse the whole car off with a nice gentle stream of water from the hose. At this point we want to flood the panels with water to help remove as much water from the surface as possible, so there’s less to dry.
Create a lubricating suds solution, by adding an extra capful of Wax Wash to your Wash bucket and froth it up nicely.
The very first time you use the towel, it’s good to start on the windscreen to help “break in” the cloths' polymer coating.
Work on small areas at a time, like 1/4 of a bonnet, or 1/2 the roof or boot.
Get heaps of suds onto the car with a Shagtastic Wash Pad, dip it and the Clay Towel in the suds solution. Take the suds to the car and squeeze them all over the section you're about to clay, with the Shagtastic Wash Pad. You want to really make sure the surface area is wet with the lubricating suds.
With your hand on the microfibre side of the towel, apply to the surface with little to no hand pressure. Use a smooth side-to-side motion, and then change to an up and down movement. You will hear and feel resistance on dirtier areas, which will disappear once it’s clean and smooth. Be real sure you don’t use the towel outside the lubricated area, and don't use too much pressure!
Little Tip: If the towel feels like it wants to grip onto the surface, have your thumb lift the towels corner as we show in the images here, and this will help the lubricant get under and glide that little bit better.
Once the Clay Towel moves smoothly over the surface, the contamination is gone, so you can rinse down the section with water and move onto a new section. Inspect and hand clean the Clay Towel with the wash suds or Orange Agent, between sections.
To avoid water spotting, keep the car wet till you’re done, then safely dry the paint with The Big Green Sucker. Your paint is now super clean and smooth, ready for the next steps of cleansing and waxing.
Grab The Big Green Sucker and mist each side of the cloth with 3-4 sprays of our Boss Gloss detailing spray. We use Boss Gloss, as its formula is amazing for this job. It adds more lubrication for the towel to make it glide over the surface, it also helps draw more water into the cloth as well as helping the light trailing water spots evaporate faster and cleaner too. It also leaves a pretty stunning finish!
Once the car is washed and dried, it’s ready for cleansing. We do that with our Paint Cleanse & Restore. This will deep clean the paint and prepare it for the wax. Place a 50c sized dollop of Paint Cleanse & Restore onto the Circle Work pad, then rub it into the surface till there are no more dry spots in the pad. Do a section of the car at a time (maybe 1/4 of the bonnet). Work the product in an up and down, then side to motion till it begins to go opaque. Once this occurs, buff off the remaining residue with a Big Softie cloth and then move onto the next section of the car until it is all done.
Ensure the cars' surface is out of direct sunlight and cool to touch. Remove any rings, belt buckles, chains or anything else from yourself as they can potentially scratch your paint. Shake the bottle really well and apply a 50-cent size amount of Carnauba Body Wax to our orange edged Circle Work applicator pad, then smother it over the pads surface, so there are no dry sections.
Work on one area of the car at a time using a slow and gentle circular motion. You can go circular with out fear of leaving swirl marks as our wax has no abrasives and the Circle Work pad is designed with materials that can never leave micro-scratches. Always ensure you're working indoors when using this technique. If you're working outdoors, or you're afraid of dirt or dust blowing onto the car, always work in straight lines instead of circular. Try and spread the wax as far as possible. The less you use, the better the results; it only needs to be lightly spread on. This way, it's easier to remove and your dollar stretches much further. Remember this simple rule; Less is Best!
Let the Carnauba Body Wax dry for around a minute, till it forms a light, dry haze. Remove it with a folded orange edged Big Softie microfibre cloth (to the low pile side). Do a final, close inspection of the car to ensure all the residue is buffed away, then tidy up any remaining residue with a final wipe of the Big Softie cloth, folded into quarters to the higher pile, plush side.
With our Carnauba Body Wax being more organic, it will take a few hours for its layer to fully harden and cure. So we recommend waiting 2 hours in the summer months and 3 to 4 months if it’s colder or wet before applying Fully Slick.
Fully Slick gets applied with 2 Drop Bear or Big Softie cloths. Spray the Fully Slick straight into 1 Drop Bear or Big Softie cloth, wipe over the surface of the paint one section at a time (half a bonnet or so), then with the second Drop Bear or Big Softie cloth, buff off any residue as you go.
You can add multiple layers of Fully Slick with approximately 1 hour cure time between each coat. We find that two coats gives the very best shine and protection possible.
Grab your other Big Softie cloth and fold it into quarters with the short pile side facing the outside. Spray 2-3 sprays only of the Naked Glass into the cloth, then lightly apply it to the glass and gently work it side to side, up and down, till you see it start to flash off. Turn your Big Softie to the high pile side of the cloth and give the glass a final buff for a perfect, streak free finish.
Wheels and tyres
Wheels and Tyres are lucky last. Dry the tyres first with a clean and dry Dirty Deeds cloth. Then, spray 3-4 sprays of Tyre Sheen into your Sacrificial Muffy then wipe over the tyre, covering all the rubber surface, getting it into the lettering on the tyres. If you like a shinier look on your tyres, you can apply a second layer of Tyre Sheen after the first layer has dried. We aim for a mid sheen on the tyre, just better than a new tyre; that's the finish we get with this applicator.
To add some protection to your wheels, you can apply Fully Slick with a Dirty Deeds cloth, or After Glow with a damp Dirty Deeds cloth. This will help protect the wheels, and help brake dust come off easier next time you clean them.
TIP: If you're working in the sun, you would dry your wheels earlier in the process to avoid water spots.
Probably the most important and overlooked part of detailing is keeping your cloths clean. We made our own microfibre wash to break down detailing chemicals from the fibres of the cloth and allow the fibres to rinse free, meaning your cloths will continue to work like new for years to come. For the Circle Work pad that you used with the Paint Cleanse & Restore, put a few MLS of the Microfibre Wash directly onto the pad and massage it around with your fingers to help release the product, then give it a good rinse under some warm water before putting it into the wash. This same method applies for any heavier stained cloths or applicators. You can also put approximately 10-20ml of Microfibre Wash into a bucket with some warm water and let the applicators and cloths soak in there for 30 minutes prior to putting them through the wash.
Put all your cloths and pre soaked dirtier applicators into the washing machine on a normal cycle, on the warm water setting. Put 20ml of Microfibre Wash in the machine (DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS) and away you go. Once they’re washed, tumble dry the cloths on the cool setting and then store them in an air tight container if possible, ready for their next use.
This gives you a good overview of the products in your new kit, and a step by step guide on how to use them and in what order to use them in.