Holy Humungous Kit V3

Congratulations!

Congratulations on your purchase! This Holy Humongous Kit was created for the person who wants absolutely everything! This guide will give you a run through of the products in your new kit, how to use each product and what order to use them in to get the most out of them all. We have a good selection of products here to get you started and help look after your car - everything from washing and drying, to protecting to your paint, to looking after your microfibre.

Wheel and Tyre Cleaning

We always like to start with the wheels. They're generally the dirtiest part of the car, so get these done first!

Half fill your Wheels bucket with water, then add one capful of Nanolicious Wash and agitate with the pressure washer wand or jet spray from the hose. Spray Wheely Clean evenly over the wheel surface (one wheel at a time), in a sweeping motion and allow it to dwell for 30 seconds to 1 minute until you see the purple reaction. If the purple reaction begins to go yellow, you've waited too long and the product will no longer be as effective on brake dust. For more stubborn dirt and grime build-up, scrub the wheel face with a suitable wheel brush like our Little Chubby or Nuts and Guts dipped in the Wheels bucket. To get into the wheel barrels, we have our Flat Head brush, which is perfect for this job and for getting in behind tight calipers.

For tyre cleaning, wet the tyre first, then spray Orange Agent directly onto the tyre. Immediately begin scrubbing the tyre with your Little Chubby brush, or other suitable stiff bristled brush. Rinse thoroughly to remove all of the Orange Agent residue.

Once the wheel is cleaned to your satisfaction, rinse it off thoroughly with either your pressure washer, or the jet spray on the hose nozzle. To add some super hydrophobic protection to the wheels, to make them easier to clean next time and so the brake dust finds it harder to stick to the wheels, spray Wet Dreams evenly over the still wet wheel surface, then immediately rinse off thoroughly to add a protective layer. Continue around the car until all four wheels are completed, doing one wheel at a time.

For a more indepth dive into wheel cleaning, we have a super detailed guide here:

 

Washing

We like to start with either a pre-wash using our Snow Job or Mega Snow Job, or give the car a really thorough rinse down with the pressure washer to remove the heavier contaminants which could potentially scratch your paint.

Your kit comes with two different washes - Nanolicious Wash is our premium wash with the best lubrication, cleaning power and protective qualities. Auto Body Gel is our most gentle and bare bones wash, which means you can use it in direct sunlight and not be concerned with it drying on the car, it will easily rinse off with water and won't streak or leave marks.

You also have a choice of wash tools in this kit - the larger Wash Pillow makes short work of larger surfaces and holds a mammoth amount of suds, while the smaller Shagamittastic Wash Mitt is great for lower or more intricate sections and prevents you from accidentally dropping the wash tool. Both can be used in conjunction for a thorough clean of your vehicle.

Get your Wash and Rinse buckets ready and 3/4 fill them with clean water. Add 1 capful of Nanolicious Wash or Auto Body Gel to your Wash bucket, then froth it up with the pressure washer to get a good head of suds. Thoroughly rinse out your chosen wash tool in the Rinse bucket, then dip it into the Wash bucket to soak up a large amount of suds.

Starting at the top of the car, wash in straight lines, flipping the wash tool as needed, going back to the Rinse bucket after each small section to rinse any dirt from the wash tool. Then go back into your clean Wash water and do the next section until the whole car is done. Do the lower sections of the doors last using a single, long swipe with the wash tool, and any other sections that are quite dirty.

If you're washing in the sun, we'd recommend washing small sections of the car at a time (1 door, for example), then rinse that panel off before moving onto the next panel, so that the wash doesn't dry on the paint. Once you've washed the whole car, take the end off the hose to flood the water off the panels, making it easier and quicker to dry the car.

To see a detailed explanation of this safe wash method, see our guide here:

Bugs or Tar?

If your car has any bugs or tar build up, you'll want to deal with that now.

Bugs

Working in the shade on surfaces that are cool to the touch, spray Bugger Off over the bug affected areas and allow it to sit for no longer than a minute. Avoid surfaces that are in poor condition, porous or breaking down. Dip your Debugger cloth into the Wash Bucket you used earlier, and gently wipe over the bugs until they are gone, then thoroughly rinse off. 

You can also spray Bugger Off onto the affecteed areas of the car before snow foaming, then snow foam over these areas within 30 seconds or so. The snow foam slows down the curing time of the Bugger Off, and gives you a little more time to get around the car with the snow foam. This will add some cleaning power to those front sections and make removing the bugs much easier.



Tar

Spray Ta Ta Tar over the tar and allow it to sit for a minute or two as the product softens and breaks down the tar. Dampen a Dirty Deeds cloth and gently wipe over until the tar is gone. For heavy tar deposits, this may take a few attempts, rinsing out the Dirty Deeds in a bucket of fresh water in between. Rinse and re-wash the area with your wash solution and tool, then rinse off again.



Place your used cloths into the Microfibre bucket ready to be washed.

Drying

You have two options for drying the car at this stage - Big Green Sucker + Boss Gloss, or After Glow with the Big Softie cloths.

Big Green Sucker + Boss Gloss

Drape The Big Green Sucker over your out stretched arm and spray 6-8 sprays of Boss Gloss into each side of the cloth, then starting at the top of the car and working your way down, begin drying the car. You'll find The Big Green Sucker will dry the whole car without the need to wring the cloth out.

After drying the paint, you can then dry the door jambs, wheels and tyres. Grab a Dirty Deeds cloth folded into quarters, and spray a few sprays of Boss Gloss into one side of the cloth, leaving the other side to dry the tyres with. Dry the door jambs and the wheels with the side of the Dirty Deeds with the Boss Gloss on it, then flip the cloth over and dry the tyres last with the side that has no Boss Gloss on it.

See our full drying with The Big Green Sucker guide below:



After Glow + Big Softies

After Glow is a quick way to add a great depth and shine to your paint, while also adding some protection and drying the car all in one go.
Grab your two Big Softie cloths and dampen one of them. Fold into quarters and spray 5-6 sprays onto one side, then begin drying the car with this side in north-south, east-west motions. Buff off any residue after a minute with your dry cloth. Wring out your wet cloth, apply two more sprays and continue till the car is done.

See our full After Glow guide here:



Place your used cloths into the Microfibre bucket ready to be washed.

Tyre Sheen

Now it's time to get the tyres looking nice. Nothing too shiny or over the top, just a lovely mid sheen like our Tyre Sheen gives.

The All Sorts applicator is great for applying our Tyre Sheen. With the tyres now dry and preferably out of direct sun, spray a few sprays of Tyre Sheen straight into the All Sorts applicator, then apply to the rubber and wipe it over the tyre face until a nice and uniform finish is achieved. For a shinier finish, you can apply a second coat of Tyre Sheen after allowing the first coat a few minutes to bond.

No need to wash the All Sorts applicator out, simply store it in a plastic bag of some sort until the next time you wish to use it.

Decontamination

For the most effective decontamination, we've found using Three Way as the lubrication for our Claying Rubber is the best option. This is a very specialised rubber compound that we’ve found to be super fine and won’t ever micro scratch or marr even the softest paints. 

Begin by spraying one section of the car at a time (like the roof) and allow the Three Way to begin breaking down any iron embedded in the paint. If you get no reaction, you can still use Three Way as a lubricant for the Claying Rubber, or use a double cap solution of your chosen wash instead. Nanolicious Wash is our most lubricating wash, and therefore is the most suitable for this task.

After a minute or so, spray a few extra sprays of Three Way into your Claying Rubber and with zero pressure, gently work the pad over the panel in north-south, east-west motions, rinsing out the pad in a bucket of fresh water regularly. Rinse the section thoroughly you've just completed with water and continue until the car is done.

Once you have finished, tip about 100mL of Orange Agent into your Wash bucket with a cap full of your preferred wash and half fill with water. Re-wash the car to remove any residue from Three Way, rinse and dry.

Our full Three Way and Claying Rubber guide can be found here:


 

Paint Cleanse & Restore

Once the car is washed and dried, it’s ready for deep cleaning and cleansing, to get deep into the pores of the paint and ensure it's as clean as possible before we move onto our final step sealant protection. We do that with our Paint Cleanse & Restore. Make sure the paint is cool to touch, dry and in the shade. Place a 50c sized dollop of Paint Cleanse & Restore onto the Circle Work pad, then rub it into the surface till there are no more dry spots in the pad. Do a section of the car at a time (maybe 1/4 of the bonnet). Work the product in an up and down, then side to side motion till it begins to go opaque. Once this occurs, buff off the remaining residue with a Big Softie cloth. 

For the next section, only apply a small amount of the Paint Cleanse & Restore to the Circle Work pad (around a 5c sized piece), and continue around the car using this method. 

If you find the product is difficult to remove, or becomes a bit sticky, simply add a couple sprays of Boss Gloss to your Big Softie cloth prior to removal to help remove these bits.

Read our in-depth guide on Paint Cleanse & Restore here:





Place your used cloths into the Microfibre bucket ready to be washed.

Flow Chart

We currently have two different systems to suit the varying paint types, colours, and preferences out there. Our Flow Chart gives a quick overview of the different options you have for protecting your paint.

Option 1 - Super Hydrophobics - these products are the most protective and longest lasting in our range. They are great for modern, daily driven cars, and if you really love intense beading and water sheeting. Bead Machine will work best on newer clear coated paint and professionally ceramic coated cars, as they are better sealed and allow for a greater, stronger bond to the paint or coating. The better the condition of the paint, the better they will work.

Option 2 - Waxes and Sealants - these products are for those of us with cars that have older, slightly neglected paints, or have a single stage (no clear coat) paints. They work well on all paint types and are great value all rounders. We love waxes as they give a lovely warm glow to your paint, something no synthetic products can replicate. With Fully Slick as the final sealant, you also get the slickest feel from your paint - something car enthusiasts have always loved! I also personally feel these are the best option for people who have a more pampered or classic car that only comes out of a weekend or a few times a year.

Our full article on the flow chart will help you decide which option to take.

Option 1 - Super Hydrophobics

Bead Machine is a super hydrophobic paint sealant. It's applied after your car has been washed and dried, and works best on modern paint that's in good condition.

First, prep the surface using our Flash Prep spray to remove any silicones, oils, or residues that could prevent it from bonding properly. 

Working on one section at a time, spray Flash Prep liberally, directly onto the surface, then immediately wipe it into the surface with a folded Big Softie cloth. Once it's been wiped in enough to remove remaining oil residue, use a separate dry and clean Big Softie cloth to remove any remaining trailing residue.

For Bead Machine, spray 4-6 sprays into the low pile side of a folded Big Softie cloth and apply in a north-south, east-west motion on one section of the car (e.g. a quarter of a bonnet, one guard), then immediately buff off with a second dry Big Softie. Add two more sprays to the wet side of your first cloth for the next section, and continue around the car till done.

If you get any streaking, or find Bead Machine difficult to remove, use a slightly damp microfibre cloth to even out those high spots. This will not affect the protection Bead Machine provides to the paint.

See our full Bead Machine guide here for all the tips and tricks:



Place your used cloths into the Microfibre bucket ready to be washed.

Option 2 - Waxes and Sealants

These waxes and sealants work on all paint types, from original single stage paints, to modern resprayed clear coats. Which wax type you choose to use is all dependant on your own personal preference.

Lazy Wax 

Lazy Wax gives a beautiful shine, especially on metallic and darker coloured cars. Just spray 8 to 10 sprays over one side of a folded plush Drop Bear cloth, then apply back and forth evenly over a smaller section (like 1/2 a bonnet, one door etc). Then, buff off right after applying with a 2nd clean and dry Drop Bear cloth, for a lovely smooth and shiny finish. Top up the same wet side of the Drop Bear with two more sprays of Lazy Wax and move onto the next section, continuing the same application and buff off process till the vehicle is done.

The full Lazy Wax guide can be found below:


 

Fully Slick

Fully Slick is used in the exact same way you do the Lazy Wax with the two Drop Bear cloths above. It can be applied over the top of the Lazy Wax (after it has cured for 3-4 hours) which can help Lazy Wax last up to double the time on the car (waxes are more organic in their nature, so they break down a bit faster in the harsh Aussie sun than synthetics), plus it leaves the slickest feeling finish of anything in our range... something that many car fanatics just love.

The full guide for Fully Slick can be found here.



Place your used cloths into the Microfibre bucket ready to be washed.

Metal Polishing

The first step with metal polishing, is to make sure that the metal surface you are using is suitable for this polish. Don't use Metal Polish on lacquered metals, fine silver, zinc plating or anodised aluminium as it will remove these coatings from the metal. We find with chrome, you just need to wipe it on and then wipe it off. There is usually no need to buff it in like you do with alloy, stainless and magnesium metals. Less is best - don't use too much product or it won't work as well.  For the best results, you have to make sure the metal surface is clean and dry. Shake the bottle well, apply a small, pea sized dollop to one of our Dirty Deeds microfibre cloths. 

Do small sections at a time, wiping the polish all over the surface. Then buff into the metal until the cloth feels smooth to run back and forth over the surface. We find it's usually about 10 to 20 seconds for lightly tarnished, dull metals. You will hear the polish working away on the tarnished surface as you rub it in. When it stops making that noise, the abrasives have broken down and the area should now be nicely polished. For really badly affected surfaces, repeat the process to get a better effect (if needed) as opposed to slathering on too much product all at once. If you have really soft and flat faced aluminium, apply in one direction, in a gentle side to side motion to avoid leaving light polishing marks in the material. 

If you're only polishing a small area, turn the Dirty Deeds cloth over to a clean side and buff the black residue from the metal to reveal a stunningly shiny surface. If it's a larger area, use two Dirty Deeds cloths, one for polishing and the other for the final buff off. If you have some black residue left in hard to reach spots, be aware you can wash this away with water if it suits you. Just apply water and wipe it away with a wet cloth. You will now have that beautiful Bowden's Own shine. So smile at yourself in the reflection! 

For an easy clean up afterwards, we have made the new Tru Blu formula so it washes off your hands with just water. Feel free to use a gentle soap as well if you really want.

The Dirty Deeds microfibre cloths will need to be pre-soaked in a bucket with warm water and 50mL of our Microfibre Wash. Give them some agitation and then rinse in fresh water before machine washing them. Make sure to wash them separately from everything else, as the black residue from the polish will leach into the other cloths they are washed with!

See our full Metal Polish guide here:

Interior

If the dash is shiny, has any grime build up, if you've been using other products on it previously, or you're using Vinyl Care for the first time on a car that's new to you, our first step is to deep clean it with our Orange Agent citrus based all purpose cleaner.

To apply, spray Orange Agent to lightly dampen one side of the Square Bear microfibre applicator pad. Work in small sections at a time, applying in a circular motion to the surface, working it in reasonably well. Now this is the important bit; wipe off the Orange Agent with a folded, clean, low pile microfibre cloth like our Plush Daddy or Dirty Deeds while it's still wet. 

Continue doing this system of cleaning, till the entire area is done.

Orange Agent leaves a dry and pretty stark finish, so you'll now need to finish it off with the Vinyl Care. Get the Vinyl Care and mist about 4 sprays into a fresh and clean Square Bear applicator. You use an applicator to ensure good coverage, as well as for making a lot less work wiping away over-spray if you spray it directly onto the surface.

Use a clean and dry, folded low pile cloth like the Plush Daddy or Dirty Deeds cloth to buff off. 

Now that your entire interior has been deep cleaned, protected and is looking great, our Far Cough antibacterial spray is ideal to use on all interior and exterior surfaces for the home or car as it it will inhibit further bacteria growth on any hard, non-porous surfaces.

Grab the Far Cough and spray a few sprays into a clean and dry Dirty Deeds cloth, then wipe over all of the surfaces in your car you want to protect. No need to over saturate, just a nice, even coat. Allow this to sit on the surfaces for 10 minutes while it works away, then come back and wipe over all of the surfaces once more with the damp cloth, then finish up with a final wipe with a clean and dry Dirty Deeds cloth.

Our full interior deep cleaning guide can be found here:

 

Place your used cloths into the Microfibre bucket ready to be washed.

Glass cleaning

For the best glass cleaning experience, we recommend to use our Naked Glass and our specialised glass cleaning cloth; the Inta-Mitt.

Spray 1-2 sprays only of Naked Glass into the green side of the Inta-Mitt (if it's cold, use less, and if it's warmer, you may need to use a little more Naked Glass). Gently wipe up and down, then back and forth over the glass until you see any marks in the glass disappear and the Naked Glass start to flash off. Turn the Inta-Mitt to the purple side and gently buff over the entire glass surface to remove any remaining product and to remove any haze from the glass.

If the glass is very dirty, or you have stubborn marks on there, you can spray the Naked Glass directly onto the glass, leave it for 10-15 seconds before using the Inta-Mitt in the same way as described above.

For a more in-depth look at glass cleaning and the Inta-Mitt, see our article below:

Microfibre Cleaning

Probably the most important and overlooked part of detailing is keeping your cloths clean. We made our own microfibre wash to break down detailing chemicals from the fibres of the cloth and allow the fibres to rinse free, meaning your cloths will continue to work like new for years to come. For any heavier stained cloths or applicators, put a few mL of the Microfibre Wash directly onto the cloth or pad and massage it around with your fingers to help release the product, then give it a good rinse under some warm water before putting it into the wash. You can also put approximately 10-20mL of Microfibre Wash into a bucket with some warm water and let the applicators and cloths soak in there for 30 minutes prior to putting them through the wash.

Put all your cloths and pre soaked dirtier applicators into the washing machine on a normal cycle, on the warm water setting. Put 20mL of Microfibre Wash in the machine (DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS) and away you go. Once they’re washed, tumble dry the cloths on the cool setting and then store them in an air tight container if possible, ready for their next use.

For a more detailed explanation of this process, please see our dedicated caring for microfibre guide below.

 

Any questions?

This gives you a good overview of the products in your new kit, and a step by step guide on how to use them and in what order to use them in.

If you have any questions, please email us info@bowdensown.com.au or call our office on 1800 351 308.

Happy detailing!

Brett Hobbs